Influences from the past inspire a contemporary cuisine
Circa 1886’s impressive cuisine is a blend of the best of Charleston, past and present.
By incorporating African, Caribbean, English and French influences, the fare emphasizes the heritage and influences of our port city.
“I think that in this technologically advanced world, we’re all connected to everything but each other,” says chef Marc Collins.
“Circa 1886 offers a chance to come in, enjoy your food, and to have a walk through our garden—to take a walk through our culinary mind, so to speak—to reconnect to the basics of life.”
Collins embraces the mission, inspired by the city and restaurant’s setting inside the Wentworth Mansion. Built in 1886 during the post-Civil War era, the building remains one of Charleston’s most prominent properties. Once the private residence of Charleston cotton merchant, Francis Silas Rodgers, the mansion survives as an example of the Second Empire style. The interior includes hand-carved marble fireplaces, complicated woodwork and plasterwork, specially crafted crystal chandeliers, and mahogany, oak and walnut finishes. A bas-relief cornice above the dining room displays a sculpture of a cotton plant, speaking to the past and Rodgers’ trade.
The restaurant, itself, was the mansion’s original carriage house. The heart-of-pine floors and large windows enable the building to retain its character. Coffered ceilings and wainscoting help create a cozy, dining space. The arched booths, set alongside one of the walls, provide a place to relax. Circa 1886’s neutral color palette does not distract or overwhelm; it fixes the emphasis squarely on the content provided by this Forbes Four Star and AAA Four Diamond-rated restaurant.
“I still try and pull from what this place would have been like 200 years ago,” Collins says. “It’s a huge influence: the French Huguenots, the West Indian spices that came through, the Caribbean, the African influences. All those things were coming through here. Charleston became a melting pot—what I consider the first New Orleans, so to speak. I think, in its own right, it has its own flavor, just like New Orleans.”
An Erie, Pennsylvania, native, Collins started at Circa 1886 in 2001. He came of age early, assuming his first chef job at 23 at the Fairmount Hotel, an AAA Four Diamond hotel restaurant. Before Circa 1886, he spent 10 years in San Antonio focusing on French and Creole fare.
Like the restaurant, Collins is not showy or strident. His approach is unobtrusive, and likely undervalued. The press that given other Charleston chefs and restaurants sometimes eludes Circa 1886. Not that Collins feels slighted. Among those who eat well in Charleston, the chef’s abilities are fully appreciated.
In fact, Collins has an unparalleled distinction: He founded the Charleston Food and Wine Festival in 2006. The festival has rapidly evolved into one of the country’s best food events, attracting prominent guest chefs, national media figures and, just last year, more than 19,000 visitors. For his contribution, the festival annually awards a medal in Collins’ honor.
“It’s very humbling. I always said I wanted a James Beard award when I started cooking,” Collins says. “So having the Wine and Food Festival is like having my James Beard moment. I did it for the greater good of Charleston, so that everybody could be busier and get more attention and notoriety.”
Collins pays his respects to the region with every meal. A plantation rice bread roll references South Carolina’s role as a chief exporter of rice during the 18th and 19th centuries. The rolls tear gently apart and are best when brushed with a whipped butter olive oil and dots of red salt.
Collins’ menu receives two major refreshes each year and will be revised again following Restaurant Week in January. But three constants remain: a plate of three artisanal cheeses, soufflé and a signature antelope dish.
Premium, lean-cut antelope is like veal in texture and taste. Circa 1886’s current incarnation takes on a peppery tone, which benefits from a French onion sauce and burgundy braised vegetables. It’s not gamey or particularly rich, just delicious and comforting.
The manner in which the antelope is cooked suggests an historical framework. “It hearkens back to a classic French dish,” Collins says.
The seared beef tenderloin references the past, too, served alongside sweet and creamy Pencil Cob grits from Anson Mills. Add a poached egg and whisky sauce, as Circa 1886 does, and the dish assumes a high-octane, breakfast-for-dinner appeal.
Meantime, Circa 1886 plums the sea, serving plump vanilla-scented scallops and a Carolina flounder. It’s heaped with delicate chestnut mousse, which quickly melts after a ladling of a sweet parmesan verjus broth.
But Collins mixes it up, too, making asparagus buttermilk ice cream—much better than it sounds—with smoked salmon roe, malt and pickled red onions. It’s a fun, crisp appetizer, almost like pistachio in flavor.
Knowledgeable servers are quick to suggest a glass or bottle from Circa 1886’s 250-bottle wine list, stored in the original wine cellar of the Wentworth Mansion. Desserts are events in themselves. Collins’ blueberries and cream soufflé is accented with a vanilla bean anglaise and a dollop of lemon icebox ice cream. Sweet potato donuts, filled with cinnamon pastry cream and finished with a pecan praline glaze, are a worthwhile indulgence. It’s doubtful anyone would have dreamed of such a dessert in 1886, but it’s pretty dreamy now.
In sum, Circa 1886 isn’t entirely beholden to the past. Rather, the restaurant uses it as a road marker to guide its future.
Circa 1886
149 Wentworth Street
843-853-7828
Hours: 5:30-10 p.m. Mon.-Sat.
www.Circa1886.com

















































